How To Stop Oil Burning (is there any prod in Pak)

How To Stop burning oil in your car, truck, boat or tractor!
Keep old cars running long past their prime ---------------------------------------- - --------------------------------------
Thank you for choosing to read this report. It is a wise decision. Now, in all likelihood, you do not have to junk that "old friend". You do not have to pay up to $ 500 to $ 740 for major repair or a new engine. You are an amazingly easy, inexpensive and effective way to stop your car or truck from burning oil to be discovered; to compression and end plug fouling restore!

Before the "1-2-3's", let's tell you about my experiences and what led to the publication of this little-known information.

Less than one year ago I bought a "cherry" 1967 Chevy half-ton - a special motor home owners who had always parked and used solely for recreation. The chrome glistened, the upholstery looked new. The original paint still gleamed with nary a dent or Thing. It was all the "goodies" - air, tranny cooler, even a 110 volt converter for powering appliances while camping.

The odometer read 68,678 miles, and as wear was minimal on the brake and accelerator pedals, I believed the numbers. The owner was buying a new truck and asked only $ 850. I immediately paid without quibbling, figuring out I had a real purchase. Drove my bargain about 600 miles, and uses very little oil. However, the engine was a little rough. Time for a tune-up.

The analyzer has a good compression level except for a "low" cylinder. "You are close to 70,000 miles gets," said the mechanic, "and due for a valve job. It is a good investment for a truck in this shape." I agreed.

Paid him $ 150 for the valve job and the fun started. For the first 20-30 miles I rejoiced in my "new truck" smoothness and power. Then I noticed that I followed - through clouds of blue-gray smoke! I went back to the store. Carburettor can be adjustment? No luck. That smoke was burning oil. The mechanic looked at the engine and scratched his head. Finally he pointed to the 110 volt converter. "I got a feeling," he said, "that is the culprit. Your engine has got more miles on it than you think. Guy bought it from them you probably ran the engine much, while the truck sat generating juice for his TV, lights, chainsaw, you name it. "

What happened was, the increased compression resulting from the valve job, forced the oil past the worn rings, creating a real "Old Smokey" Drove that way for a few weeks, but I was burning a quarter of the expensive oil for 200 miles and getting cross-eyed, looking (and trying to avoid) police cars. The plugs fouled so fast that the whole rig shuddered and thrust like a goosed Bronco, just a few miles after installing a new start.

In short, I was in the position you now ... possession of a basically good car that you want to keep. I too was not prepared for the costs of the usual remedy, or buy a new car or truck at inflated prices charged today. As you probably already done, I went to an auto supply store and wistfully read the labels on cans additive that promised to stop burning oil. Picked one up and walked to the Registrar.

"This stuff good?" I asked. He, more honest than sales oriented, replied: "Do not know. Never heard of it really works." I walked out without buying.

A few days later, trailing my usual cloud of smoke, I stopped at a small gas station-garage on the outskirts of town. The owner, a thin elderly man in bib overalls splotched fat, while I was hosing ran on gas.

"Nice lookin truck," he remarked. I nodded. "Did you see smoke," he added. "Thinking rebuildin the engine?" I replaced the hose in the pump and turned around. "Maybe later," I shrugged, thinking he was trying to drum up some business. "Costs too damn much."

He grinned. "Twenty bucks sit beneficial?"

"For what?"

"Fixin what's wrong. Do a cup of coffee in the street to get. It will be in good condition when you get back."

"You got to be kidding!"

He was not there. Told me that he was a mechanic for almost 40 years and had rebuilt countless engines. But, for the past year or so, because the learning of a new product and the formulation of zijn own technique for its use, he was not much reconstruction. 'Gettin too old, "he complained," to keep tearin engines down and put em back together. "

Twenty minutes later I drove "remember" certain instructions. My smoke quickly disappeared and the engine ran better and better. Almost immediately oil consumption and plug fouling stopped. Today, nearly 15,000 miles later, I still do not add oil between changes and you never heard a better running old truck! Now, here is the "Secret Technique" that venerable master mechanic revealed to me that you can easily do yourself: -

First, check and correct oil leaks around valve covers and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure will not stop leaks.) If front or rear engine bearing seals leak, add a can of "bearing seal additive" after step # 2. Chances are it will stop or greatly minimize the problem at low cost. (It has for me.) Okay, here are three steps: -

1. Let the engine oil and oil filter replacement. You've probably already using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with a heavier class, a weight of oil. During the warm months, a 40 weight in winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil will not hurt worn engine, and if the battery is good, it will soon pass.

2. Add two cans (30 grams) of Alemite CD 2 for oil burning, of which one quarter of the oil that you would normally use during an oil change replace. (If capacity with new filter is less than 5 / 4, one can use the Alemite.)

3. Drive the vehicle in the city-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at least 50 miles (100 miles away is better), before opening up to highway speeds. That's all there is!

Steps # 1 and # 3 are the real secret, ensuring the success of the "usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why, as my mechanic friend explained it to me: -

The Alemite contains a substance that builds up between the ring and cylinder wall, forming a tough, durable seal. Problem is, standard 30 weight (in a temperate climate) and multi-grade oils are too thin, they do not have enough "body" to most of the sealer to prevent blowing past rings before he can do his job. A heavier, weighing the blow-by oil slows and speeds up the seal formation.

Driving on low speed for the first 50 miles or so, also helps to achieve rapid sealing structure. Use a heavy foot on the accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving pistons pump much of the oil and the exhaust pipe sealer.

The sealing compound, after setting, is not as hard as steel. So, in order to seal does not deteriorate, adding one can of the Alemite then when changing oil. You could get away with going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But why change a winning combination!

My success was not a "fluke" or something only with my type or brand of vehicle! I was so pleased with the results that I had a friend in trying to remedy the same. He owned a 1976 Pontiac Grand Prix, a real "Oilcoholic" with more than 120,000 miles of hard driving and poor maintenance. He fell from an oil consumption of one liter per 300 miles, to zero oil burning. One of his colleagues, impressed by the "born again behemoth", bought a clean classic - a '65 Mustang Fastback with a real tired engine - for very little money. Using this procedure, he sold at a handsome profit!

Soon, as the good news spread, I received reports of many successful applications - on foreign and domestic four-bangers, boats, even a couple of diesel-powered tractors. That's when I decided to advertise this "know-how in a small way.

Incidentally, I have no connection with the Alemite company, nor is this report based on a "lab tests". All I know is that this method worked fine for me, my friends, their friends, and many others. I can not see a "risk" involved, but my lawyer I should put them to: - The seller of such information, no liability or responsibility for any damage to the vehicle resulting from the use of it is from these data is due to factors beyond Seller's control. Use at your own risk. "

Look at it this way. You're not paying $ 3 for a "witness." You invested a small amount of information that can save you hundreds of dollars. Your current car or truck can now provide you with many months or even years of service ... delaying the need for a new vehicle to buy for a long time to come.

Alemite CD 2 for oil burning usually retails for around $ 2.25 per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearin 'Seal, for about $ 2.50 for 15 ounces. Both products are widely sold in supermarkets and of course, auto supply stores.